The Year of Living Audaciously

Former food blog, now travel blog - following my year as a Fulbright ETA in Indonesia

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Traveling Through Vietnam (Part 2)

February 15, 2017 by Mackenzie

A month later and I’m finally about writing the second half of my Vietnam adventures. January and February were busy months with our Mid-Year Enrichment Conference and then getting back into the swing of things at school after six weeks off. It felt like the second semester was starting off at 110% – there was so much to be done and to prepare for this semester (WORDS, YES Scholarship, etc). Then, add in a new American President and you have me spending a majority of my free time reading the news…Today is election day in Indonesia so it’s a holiday! (Take note, America.) This means I have a blissfully free Wednesday to sleep in and do as I please. Aka finally writing a blog post.

I left off the last post in Hue on Christmas Eve. On Christmas Day, we packed up and headed to Hoi An, via motorbikes! It’s (theoretically) about a half day journey by motorbike from Hue to Hoi An and we had heard fantastic things about the trip.

We stopped at a number of places throughout the trip – submerged rice fields in the countryside outside of Hue, an incredible cemetery, a beautiful lagoon, a waterfall, and the Hai Van Pass, which takes you along the ocean and over the mountains and is absolutely beautiful. A flat tire, running out of gas, and losing Daniel turned our trip into a longer day than it should have but I can’t recommend this trip highly enough! It was SO COOL!

Submerged rice paddies

These resting places, in An Banh village, are incredibly beautiful. Plots like this stretch one after the next, for as far as the eye can see.

The average family spends $70,000 to $100,000+ on these grave sites… um WHAT?

I’m sure I wasn’t supposed to climb on the dragon and ride it in a cemetery but when else can you ride a $20,000 dragon?

The view from our lunch pit stop… jaw-dropping

Along the Hai Van Pass

Travel Buddies!

The view coming down the other side of the pass. The city of Da Nang is in the distance.

Then we spent three nights in Hoi An, a charming little town known for its tailors and lanterns. It’s a tourist trap but I loved it after living in far-off Indonesian places for so long. Unfortunately, on our second night there, we got food poisoning and became horrendously sick. We spent the next day in bed, hardly able to move, and cursing the food gods. We were looking forward to spending a day at the beach that day but alas, that didn’t happen.

Best breakfast spot in town

Exchanged Christmas presents <3

Lanterns for sale in the market

The famous Japanese-covered Bridge

The next day, we hauled ourselves out of our sick beds and made our way to the airport. We were much better by then but still a bit queasy. By the time we arrived in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), we were feeling better and up for a night on the town. We stayed at the COOLEST hostel – The Common Room Project – and luxuriated in the down comforters, beautiful bathrooms, and incredible rooftop. It’s a little out of the way from the Backpacker District but if you are wiling to take cabs to and from wherever you are, it’s 100% worth it. Seriously, this place was amazing.

Photo from The Common Room Project website because I was too busy enjoying the place to take a picture

The shared kitchen <3

View from the rooftop patio

We stuffed ourselves with pho, got drinks at the fancy Skybar in the tallest skyscraper in the city, fell in love with a dozen puppies, soberly made our way through the Vietnam War Museum, and went on a food tour with local university students. On New Year’s Day we went on a tour to the Chu Chi Tunnels, about two hours outside of Saigon. While the whole thing was way too touristy, it was still neat to see and I’m glad we went. We spent the rest of New Year’s Eve bar-hopping with some of our other ETA friends! On New Year’s Day, we said goodbye to Daniel, and Kate and I headed back to Kendari.

Pho from the gods <3

At the Bitexco Tower fancy-schmancy bar

Falling in love with puppies. Look at his little face!

$50 and he could have been mine… gahhh I should have bought him!

Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon

Chu Chi Tunnels where the Viet Minh guerrilla hid during the Vietnam war

We got to crawl through one of the tunnels! It was a tight squeeze!

New Year’s in Saigon – looking down on the streets from a rooftop bar

We had to spend a night in Kuala Lumpur before getting back to Kendari so we decided to book a hostel in the city so we could see the Petronas Towers. Damn they are incredible. We stumbled upon a food truck park at midnight and devoured some pizza before crashing back at our hostel for the night. We woke up at the crack of dawn and headed back to the airport to catch our flight to Jakarta, then to Makassar, and finally back to Kendari. Of course, when we got back to Kendari we discovered that our bags hadn’t made the flight and were still in Makassar. Thankfully, Kate’s landlord (and our ride) was there to help us sort things out and our bags were finally delivered the next morning.

Petronas Towers, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Because in Asia, you gotta have a selfie!

Books to read before going to Vietnam

I read a number of books about Vietnam before we went. I wanted to know more about the history, in particular about America’s role during the Vietnam War, but also about the history of French colonialism and Vietnamese culture. I searched around on a couple of websites and found these recommended books so I bought the kindle versions and read them in December and throughout the trip! These books were especially interesting to read as they all took place in the cities we were traveling to. Now, having been there, I can picture what it must have looked like and the references to different locations (Old Quarter vs the French Quarter in Hanoi) mean so much more. Here are my selections:

  • The Things They Carried by Tim O’Brien: A powerful book about a troop of American soldiers. A deep and sad read, but one that gave me perspective on what it was like for the Americans during the war
  • When Heaven and Earth Changed Places: A Vietnamese Woman’s Journey from War to Peace by Le Ly Hayslip:  A mesmerizing story about a young peasant girl growing up in the countryside during the struggle with the French and the Vietnam War. I highly, highly recommend this book whether or not you are going to Vietnam. It’s one of those books that sticks with you and you think about long after you finish it…
  • The Sacred Willow: Four Generations in the Life of a Vietnamese Family by Duong Van Mai Elliot: Tbh, I’m not actually finished with this one. It’s quite long and I’m only about halfway through. While long, it’s paints a fascinating narrative of the life of a Vietnamese family… four generations of that family, and I have a much more thorough understanding of traditional Vietnamese customs, than I did before. I’d recommend the book but know you are in a for a long read.

Filed Under: Fulbright, Travels, Year 2 Tagged With: Book Recommendations, traveling, Vietnam

Traveling Through Vietnam (Part 1)

January 8, 2017 by Mackenzie

On December 19th, I packed up my bags, headed to the airport, and boarded my first of four flights to Hanoi, Vietnam! It took us about 24 hours, including an eight hour overnight layover in Kuala Lumpur, to get there. 24 hours! I could have flown back to the States in that time! This goes to show how far Kendari is from anything… it took us half a day just to get back to Jakarta…Over the course of 2 weeks, we traveled to five different places in Vietnam, going from North to South: Hanoi, Ha Long Bay, Hue, Hoi An, and Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City).

I traveled with my friends, Kate, Caroline, and Daniel – all my fellow ETAs in Indonesia. We also ran into five other ETAs throughout our travel, who had similar vacation plans 🙂 Besides Kate, my sitemate, I haven’t seen the other ETAs since orientation, back in September, so this was an exciting chance to catch up with everyone.

Daniel, Kate, me, and Caroline ~ on a rainy morning in Hue

Our first stop was Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam and the second largest city. Kate and I spent our first day exploring and eating Vietnamese food as we waited for Daniel to arrive later that night. Our second day was spent shopping, visiting museums, making arrangements for the rest of our trip, and finding Caroline later that evening.

Bon Ca ~ a Hanoi speciality. It’s essentially a make your own soup? They give you everything individually and then you add it all together in your bowl, and continue adding until you are stuffed!

In the middle of Hanoi is a small lake. There is a temple in the middle and it is located in the Old and French Quarters so surrounded by coffee shops, famous sites, and tourists.

Vietnamese coffee… incredible. How did I never know about this? It’s like an espresso shot (a little more) on top of a little bit of condensed milk. Stir it all together and you have a delicious coffee!

The Old Quarter of Hanoi is full of shops selling anything you could need. And in addition to the shops, are dozens of bicycles overflowing with goods, like this man’s flowers.

This narrow alley is famous for the train that runs through it twice a day. Apparently, you have to flatten yourself against the wall of one of these houses when the train comes! We tried to catch the train but after 30 minutes or so, we gave up and went home for a well-deserved nap.

We finished our time in Hanoi eating incredible Indian food. Yes, I know we were in Vietnam and should be eating Vietnamese… but we’ve gone too long without some of our favorites, and it was time to splurge 🙂

After two days in Hanoi, we packed up and jumped on a tour bus to Ha Long Bay. Four hours later, we could see the ocean and massive rocks jutting out of the water – we had arrived. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the “New Seven Natural Wonders of the World”, Ha Long Bay is a breathless site.

We spent two days and one night on an old pirate ship exploring the Bay. We kayaked, ate, drank, played, jumped off the boat, and ultimately spent a lot of time sitting in wonder gazing at the beauty surrounding us.

Our pirate ship

Kate and Caroline on their kayak!

Sunset from the boat

Swimming in the Bay

After a four hour bus ride back to Hanoi, we had an hour to kill before boarding our 12-hour overnight bus to Hue. Yes, 16 out of 17 hours on a bus. Could have planned that better but oh well… we survived 🙂

Sleeper buses aren’t so bad when you have a whole bed/seat to stretch out on!

We arrived in Hue in the morning, checked in to our hotel, and decided to wander the city and explore the Imperial Citadel. After exploring the palace and grounds, we met up with our friend Jukie to wander the market, and then went home and took a well-needed nap and finally met up again for a Christmas Eve dinner!

Hallways of the 1800 palace

The grounds of the Imperial City

Drinks on a rooftop bar for Christmas Eve

In an effort not to make extraordinarily long posts, you can find the second half of our Vietnam trip (including a motorcycle tour through the countryside, food poisoning, and New Year’s Eve festivities) in the next post… 🙂

Filed Under: Fulbright, Travels, Year 2 Tagged With: Christmas, fulbright, Ha Long Bay, Hanoi, Hue, traveling, two weeks in vietnam, Vietnam

Meet Mackenzie

Hi! I'm Mackenzie! I'm currently a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant in Indonesia! I'm writing all about my year on this blog and hope you'll follow along on this journey! Read More…

Disclaimer:

Students and Indonesian Friends: Please don't take anything I say here as critical of my experience or you and your culture. Rather, through this blog I want to share my experience in your country with my friends and family in America! I may write and laugh about a lot of things that are different but none of it is bad, it's just different!

This blog is not an official Department of State website, and the views and information presented here are my own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the Department of State.

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5 of 5 stars
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3 of 5 stars
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4 of 5 stars
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4 of 5 stars
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4 of 5 stars
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by Emily St. John Mandel
Fight Back and Win
2 of 5 stars
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by Gloria Allred

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Mackenzie

Hi! I'm Mackenzie! I'm currently a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant in Indonesia! I'm writing all about my year on this blog and hope you'll follow along on this journey! Read More…

A Look Back

This blog is not an official U.S. Department of State website and the views and opinions expressed here are entirely my own, and do not represent the U.S. Department of State or the Fulbright Program.

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