The Year of Living Audaciously

Former food blog, now travel blog - following my year as a Fulbright ETA in Indonesia

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2016: Year in Review

December 18, 2016 by Mackenzie

Merry Christmas Everyone!

It’s December 18th and I’m packing and cleaning my house before I leave for Vietnam tomorrow. I am super excited for our trip – I haven’t left Kendari since we arrived after orientation in September and I’m itching to travel! We’ve spent the last several weeks planning our trip – we’ll start in the north in Hanoi and make our way south to Ho Chi Minh City over the course of two weeks. We’ve booked our hostels and flights and looked up fun things to do in each of the four cities will be in but other than that, we’re planning to take each day as it comes! I’ll be traveling with Kate (my sitemate) and Caroline and Daniel, two fellow ETAs. There will also be a number of our other ETA friends in Vietnam so we hoping to see them along the way, too.

I can’t wait to be in a place with lots of holiday spirit, Western and Vietnamese food, and hot showers. You have no idea how excited I am for a hot shower after four months of pouring buckets of cold water over my head and calling that a shower…. (I’m not exaggerating in the slightest).

But before we get ready to enter 2017 I want to look back at 2016. Who would have thought I’d still be in Indonesia, still rooming with cockroaches and giant spiders, still eating rice for a majority of my meals, and still have no idea what I want to do with my life…?

2016 Year in Review

January: highlights included the Fulbright mid-year conference in Jakarta, finally getting to see the other ETAs after four months in our respective cities; and traveling to Ko Tao, Thailand and getting scuba certified!

February: finally got into a teaching routine after months of evacuations and joined my kids in a crazy mud-filled scout camp.

March: hosted our SMAN 5 WORDS Competition, spent a beautiful week in Bali, and officially decided to return for a second year!

April: Hung out with orangutans in Tanjung Puting National Park and spent a week in Jakarta with my student, Telsy, for the National WORDS competition.

May: welcomed Spencer to Palangkaraya, said a tearful goodbye, and began our Indonesia adventure heading to Nusa Lembongan and Flores/Komodo National Park.

June: Finished our Indo tour in Ubud and Jogja and came home to the USA! Did a whirlwind trip from Seattle to DC to St. Louis and back to Seattle.

July: Enjoyed time with my family, played a lot of golf, attended a lecture by Malala, and worked my ass off to finish the 1 million step challenge (success!)

August: Returned to Indonesia, spent a few weeks in Jakarta working with AMINEF, visited my kiddos in Palangkaraya, and finally went to Kendari for the first time!

September: Attended orientation in Bandung, settled in to my new home in Kendari, and started the crazy BBG workout.

October: Explored my new city and settled into a teaching routine.

November: Visited Moramo waterfall, despaired over Trump’s election, celebrated Thanksgiving three times, and shed pounds doing Kayla’s BBG workout.

December: Chilled with no school for 2.5 weeks and headed to Vietnam!


Books of 2016

I read a lot (29 on #30!) of books in 2016… I enjoyed almost all! Here is my list with the starred ones as my favorites:

  • Harry Potter #1-7 by JK Rowling***(obviously)
  • My Life on the Road by Gloria Steinem
  • The Color Purple by Alice Walker
  • All the Light We Cannot See by Anthony Doerr
  • The Handmaid’s Tale by Margaret Atwood
  • Wild by Cheryl Strayed***
  • Jonathan Strange and Mr Norrell by Susanna Clarke
  • Game of Thrones #1-3 by George R.R. Martin***
  • Preparing to Study in the USA
  • The Nightingale by Kristin Hannah***
  • Family Room by Lily Yulianti Farid
  • Harry Potter and the Cursed Child by John Tiffany and JK Rowling
  • Born For This by Chris Guillebeau
  • A Brief History of Indonesia by Tim Hannigan***
  • Kafka on the Shore by Haruki Murakami
  • I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings by Maya Angelou
  • Yes Please by Amy Poehler
  • Black Girl Dangerous by Mia Mackenzie
  • A Gentleman in Moscow by Amor Towles***
  • The Things They Carried by Tom O’brien
  • The Looming Tower: Al-Qaeda and the Road to 9/11 by Lawrence Wright***
  • When Heaven and Earth Changed Places by Le Ly Hayslip (currently reading)

If you have any highlights from your 2016 book list, let me know – I always love book recommendations!


Game-changers

What have I acquired or done in 2016 that changed my year for the better? Here’s my list!

  • Passion Planner: I stumbled across this website in a book (Born for This) last summer and immediately went online and bought it. Everyone loves a good planner but this is more than just a planner. It’s a goal-setting, goal-achieving, master-organizer, keep-track of everything you do, save all your memories, snazzy looking book. I love, love, love my Passion Planner!
  • 1 Million Step Challenge: Every year or so my mom and I challenge each other to walk 1 million steps in three months, an average of 10-11,000 steps a day. This is quite a challenge, particularly if you get behind! But for the third time in three years, both my mom and I completed it! Felt healthy and strong after three months and hundreds of miles!
  • Kayla Itsines’ BBG Workout: On a whim I committed to doing the BBG workout with some of the other ETAs. I started my first week back at site in September and after the first workout, I literally couldn’t walk. But I stuck with it (thanks in large part to our accountability whatapp group) and am now on my 13th week of the workout (can you believe that?!) and I have shed the rice-weight. See below for a before and after photo (so far!). I’m incredibly proud of myself for sticking with it and am excited to continue this lifestyle of fitness into the New Year!
  • Photographs: sounds lame but when you live by yourself 10,000 miles away from home, life can be lonely. Surrounding myself with photos keeps the memories alive and my spirit my positive.
  • Budget Spreadsheet: again, sounds lame but I started to keep track of every dollar (and rupiah) I spent back in July and my nerdy self is loving having a much better idea of where my money is going (particularly since Indonesia is a cash-based economy and 99.9% of my transactions are in cash). It’s fascinating to keep track of it all and even better to knowing I have extra to stash away in my savings.
  • Motorcycles: Last December I bought a motorcycle (scooter) in Palangkaraya and it 100% changed my life in Pky. This year, I am borrowing a motorcycle (scooter) from my neighbor and the ease of having my own transportation is a life-saver. I am so thankful to have it! Plus, last week I even got my own Indonesian motorcycle driver’s license! (Had a scary run-in with the police for not having a license so we figured out how to get one here!)

Left: June 2nd, 2016 Right: December 18, 2016. All due to three months of BBG.


I find myself entering 2017 with the same career questions and future unknowns as I did last year… but I’m not worried about it, rather, I’m excited to get going on the job search post-vietnam and to know where and what I’ll be doing come June!

2016 has been year full of meeting new people, making new friends, and exploring so many new places. I’m incredibly blessed to get to travel as much as I do and to see so much of the world and I’m excited for one more journey in 2016… to Vietnam!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Filed Under: Fulbright, MAN 1, SMAN 5, Year 2, Year In Review Tagged With: 2016, BBG, Year in review

The End

May 23, 2016 by Mackenzie

“Oh my god, I’m going home”

This thought crossed my mind as we begin the descent into Bali. And no, I don’t mean that Bali is home. It’s just the fact that it’s here. The day has come. It’s May 23rd. My Fulbright grant is over. I don’t actually head home for another two weeks but the closing of one door and the opening of another is huge. This journey I’ve been on for the last nine months has come to a close. I’m now on a new journey – a journey of traveling and fun adventures with my brother before I go home in 12 days. That’s just wild.

This thought came with a myriad of emotions – I’m so excited to see my family and enjoy the modern conveniences of life in America. I’m about to go on the most incredible two week vacation of my life. But I’m also distraught at the fact that at the end of this trip I’m not going back to my friends and kids in Palangka Raya.

The last week has been one of the most emotional weeks of my life. My leaving seemed to hit me on Wednesday as I said started my class. I said my usual, “good morning. How are you?” and then my voice caught in my throat as I realized that my opportunities to do this were quickly coming to a close. I started to tear up and I couldn’t speak. My students looked lovingly, but sadly at me as we all realized the truth – this was the end. I had to let Spencer take over and introduce himself as I pulled myself together to teach.

Thursday was 10x worse. I teared up again saying goodbye to my morning class. While I waited for my next class in the teacher’s lounge I noticed so much scurrying and whispers. Sure enough, Tisia told me to “go to class” but all the teachers followed me and instead of walking toward my class we walked toward the Aula (auditorium), where I realized they were surprising me with a farewell party. I walked in to the room of 250 kids singing my favorite Indonesian pop song and I burst into tears. I stood at the front as they sang and I cried. I sang with them, walked up the aisle to better see them all, and sobbed my eyes out. My sweet, sweet kids… This was it. This was the end.

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My farewell party was beautiful. My kids sang, my headmaster, Tisia and several of my kids gave speeches. I gave an impromptu speech. I was given so many gifts and cards. I salaamed (shook hands/high fived/hugged/hand to forehead) all 300 students. I took a bazillion selfies. I went through my whole pack of tissues. It was so, so special and I couldn’t believe that this whole thing was for me. I truly sobbed through the whole thing.

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Officially a Dayak Queen

Officially a Dayak Queen

All the teachers of SMAN 5

Teachers of SMAN 5

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Afterwards, all of the teachers in the school took me out to lunch. All 25+ of us piled into the back room of a restaurant and took over two huge tables as we shared one last meal all together. It was so special.

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Friday morning was incredibly hard. I took Spencer to the airport and then went home to begin packing. I ran to the photocopy store for some last minute printing and got teary saying goodbye to them. Then driving back home I really cried. This was it.

I met Tisia for breakfast at Mama Ina’s – the tiny warung across the street from my school where I have eaten breakfast at least 5 days a week for the last nine months. We were both quiet as we ate, holding back tears. I gave Mama Ina a photo of the two of us in her shack and she stuck it on the wall – and then I actually cried. That was the end.

Mama Ina's

Mama Ina’s

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I picked up my bag and began walking to class. As I walked down the hallway one last time I couldn’t hold back the tears. My sweet, sweet kids were hanging out everywhere and this was the last time I’d walk this hall and talk to them. That broke my heart.

I made it through most of my one and only Friday class. Tisia was conspicuously absent and I kept texting her asking where she was… she told me later she was hiding in the teacher’s lounge because she couldn’t bear to see my cry teaching my last class. So instead, after I finished teaching we both sat outside the teachers lounge and cried. I was done. I’d taught my last class.

Tisia, bu Yuyun, and bu Cristin took me out for lunch and batik shopping. The teachers all pitched in to buy me traditional Dayak batik but they wanted me to choose it – we wandered the store for at least an hour choosing our favorites and picking what I wanted. I finally settled on two beautiful fabrics – I can’t wait to get them tailored when I come back in August. Lunch was hard. I was so happy to be with them but so sad at the reality that this was our last lunch together. Tisia couldn’t even look at me. The few times we made eye contact, we would both become teary eyed.

We finally went back to my house and then it was just me and Tisia. She had told me earlier that morning that she was going to Banjarmasin that night. She couldn’t take me to the airport. It would be too hard. I gave her her gifts – a wooden sign with the quote “good friends are like stars, you can’t always see them but you know they’re always there” and a framed picture of the two of us. She gave me mine but wouldn’t let me open it – it’s in my America-bound suitcase to be opened there.

I started really crying as the moment finally arrived. She was leaving and we had to say goodbye. She was so strong and held it together – I absolutely did not. Even now, three days later, I’m tearing up remembering this moment. She finally left and as she walked from my house, through the asrama, and to school – I sobbed, my shoulders heaving, as she walked away. It took everything in me to not go running after her, to not beg her to stay, to not beg her to let me stay, to not have to say goodbye. Once she had gone around the corner I sat on my bed and absolutely wept.

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 Once I was a little more composed, I hopped back on my motorcycle and drove to the last few places/people that I wanted to say goodbye to. I gave my mechanic a USA t-shirt – he always wears a Dayak t-shirt and I thought it would be a fun memory of me to have a USA t-shirt. Plus, he’s saved me so many times with my motorcycle. I owe him so much.

I stopped at my other favorite warung. I’ve only been there maybe 10 times but the family is so incredibly sweet and the daughter is the most outgoing little girl I’ve ever met. I love them. I brought them candy, pennies, and a big USA beach ball. They absolutely loved it all and we spent an hour catching up and saying goodbye.

Finally, I stopped at my favorite little cafe but instead of going inside, or saying something to the people who work there – I stopped because I wanted to say thank you and goodbye to the parkir (parking) guy. He was shocked – but I loved it. I thanked him for always having a smile through the rain and the heat. He’s always someone I can count on to make me feel a little less alone. I teared up saying goodbye to him. To the parkir guy!! You know you’ve found a community when you cry over your parkir and photocopy people.

A few of my girls helped me pack that evening. We ate one final dinner together in the dorm. I held it together as best as I could. A lot of girls came over that night to make s’mores and hang out. It was a night of memories that I’ll keep with me for a long time. Saying goodbye to them ripped my heart out. My sweet girls have made all the difference for me. We sobbed and sobbed and sobbed.

By 11pm I had sent all the girls home. I needed to finish packing, to write up a report for AMINEF, finish my letter for Tisia, and try and squeeze some sleep in there somewhere. I slept about three hours that night on top of only three the night before – so on top of my emotions I was just an exhausted mess.

Saturday morning dawned bright and early. I finished packing and brought all my stuff to the porch. At 6:15 my kids all lined up to march to school. Knowing this was my last chance to see them, I ran to the front of the gate and then waved goodbye to them all as they marched through. I took a video of it as they marched but it’s incredibly shaky because I’m sobbing through the whole thing.

Finally, with the kids off to school I got in the bus and headed to the airpot. Six of my sweet girls accompanied me to the airport and I sat in a daze, doing my best to hold back my tears, as we drove away from school one last time. The airport was so hard. All these strangers watched me sob through my goodbyes. I was a beautiful mess. After a lot of hugs, photos, and tears I let them go and headed inside. I was sitting at the gate when my phone rings. It’s two of my 12th grade students and they had driven all the way from the village to surprise me at the airport and say goodbye (they graduated two weeks ago). I ran sprinting back through the (tiny) airport to the front where I swept them both into a huge hug. These girls are two of the best English speaking students in the school and I had tutored them twice a week for several months. It meant so much to me to see them again.

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Saying goodbye to my girls at the airport

Saying goodbye to my girls at the airport

Finally, I made my way back through the airport and onto my plane. I tried to call my mom but could only say two sentences before I broke into tears and had to hang up. I climbed up the stairs and onto the plane and realized with dismay that I was in a middle seat. I squeezed in between two older men and promptly continued to weep, at the sheer panic of the men on either side of me. Gosh, I’d love to be able to read their minds.

By the time I got to Jakarta I was drained. It had happened, it was done, I was on my way to the next journey. I miss them all terribly but I think having a fun couple of weeks traveling before heading home is just what I need to cure my downcast spirit. And hey, night one in this villa ain’t too shabby a way to start.

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Filed Under: Fulbright, SMAN 5 Tagged With: ending, fulbright, SMAN 5

Dear SMAN 5

May 22, 2016 by Mackenzie

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To my Family at SMAN 5,

I didn’t sleep Friday because my heart hurt so much. And now, as I’m completely exhausted and trying to sleep on the plane, I can only picture your faces and our memories together and I can’t sleep and can only cry. I’m stuck in a middle seat with two old men next to me and I think they think I’m crazy.

I know I’ve cried a lot over the last few days – you say “jangan menangis” (don’t cry) but my love for you is overflowing and I can’t keep it inside of me. These tears are my love.

You are my family. You’ve been there with me through it all – my highs, my lows, every moment of every day in these last nine months. I wouldn’t trade living in the asrama for anything. Not a mansion, not a beachside villa, not even my home in America. My home is with you and I’m leaving a huge chunk of my heart there.

Thanks for saving me from scorpions (shout out to Loge!) and rats, for making pancakes and s’mores with me, for playing UNO and Bananagrams, for always inviting me to eat at your table in the RM (dining hall), for singing and chanting at all hours of the day, for teaching me Bahasa Indonesia and Bahasa Dayak… I’ll carry these memories with me forever. Whenever someone says, “Selamat Pagi” (good morning) I’ll be waiting for you all to shout, “SELAMAT PAGI!” (shouted – military style)

I’ll never forget our Scout Camp, when you all hugged me and got me covered in mud and then we swam in the swamp together. And then you walked all night long and I was waiting for you in the roundabout but I fell asleep on the ground before you got there. When we did aerobics and the penguin song in the morning and then as you were all lined up, someone played “Timber” and I started to dance. I messed up your apel (announcement ceremony at the end of each day) as we danced together and you laughed. These are memories I’ll keep forever.

All my love,

Miss Mackenzie

Each of my nine classes on our last day together

 

My last night in the dorm - we made s'mores, played bananagrams, laughed, and cried

My last night in the dorm – we made s’mores, played bananagrams, laughed, and cried

Last day of school - I totally interrupted and messed up their afternoon military ceremony :P

Last day of school – I totally interrupted and messed up their afternoon military ceremony 😛

Saying goodbye to my girls at the airport

Saying goodbye to my girls at the airport

I love you SMAN 5!

I love you SMAN 5!

Filed Under: Fulbright, SMAN 5 Tagged With: fulbright, goodbye, SMAN 5

National WORDS Competition

April 20, 2016 by Mackenzie

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My last post was about our local WORDS competition – and now I get to share with you about the National WORDS competition!

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The Palangka Raya girls set off Sunday morning for the big city. We stayed at a fancy hotel in downtown Jakarta which was a treat for the students but a REALLY big treat for us ETAs! Hot showers, bath tubs, the biggest and most delicious breakfast buffet I’ve ever seen… Three days was not enough there…

Sunday evening we all dressed up in our fancy clothes for the welcoming dinner – it was fun to watch the students mingle shyly with each other and size each other up before the competition the following day.

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I was part of the Pesta (party) People 2k16 team that organized some fun activities for the kids throughout the weekend. After the dinner we organized an oleh-oleh exchange, where the kids each brought some kind of special food or gift from their region and we randomly paired them up so they had a new friend to exchange gifts with! It was adorable watching them introduce each other, share about their gifts, and then continue chatting and making new friends.

Pesta People 2k16 (Bryan, Kendra, and me)

Pesta People 2k16 (Bryan, Kendra, and me)

Counting off students... I've gotten real good at that as a teacher this year ;)

Counting off students… I’ve gotten real good at that as a teacher this year 😉

My student Telsy, and a student from Manado, exchanging their Oleh Oleh

My student Telsy, and a student from Manado, exchanging their Oleh Oleh

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Love this shot they captured of us!

Monday morning was a blur of nerves and excitement. One by one the students delivered their speech and talent before the panel of judges and audience. They were all incredibly impressive and so fun to watch. I’m glad I wasn’t a judge!

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Nervously awaiting our turn! #27

Nervously awaiting our turn! #27

The two palangka raya girls quickly bonded!

The two palangka raya girls quickly bonded!

Finally, it was Telsy’s turn! I gave a short introduction and then she took the stage! Telsy’s speech was about wanting to motivate people, become a tv producer, and be a tourist ambassador of Central Kalimantan – and so she wore a beautiful traditional Dayak costume.

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She sang a beautiful traditional Dayak song called Itak Gumer

She sang a beautiful traditional Dayak song called Itak Gumer

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Wow-ing the audience with her mandau knife – all the ETA boys immediately looked at me and said, “How did she get that on the plane?!” “Indonesia…” I replied.

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I was so proud of her. She delivered her speech flawlessly, sang beautifully, and danced to perfection. It was all I could have asked for and more <3

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All the ETAs and their impressive students!

Afterwards she was even taken aside by the media for an interview!

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After the competition, the Pesta People 2k16 took the crew out for an evening of lasertag and mini golf. None of the students had ever done laser tag before and they LOVED it. We were hot, sweaty, and happy!

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The next day, after the students had toured Jakarta and the ETAs had a debriefing meeting – we took the kids out to go ice skating! Unfortunately, traffic kept a lot of ETAs and students from making it there before it closed but at least some of the kids got to try it!

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Carlie and Fati (her student) ice skating and Telsy and I watching them from above!

However, seeing as the rink was in the middle of a mall, that meant we had the whole evening to explore the mall! I don’t think our girls had ever seen a mall like this – maybe only in the movies! We wandered through every floor window-shopping, buying any treats the girls wanted, and meandering a bookstore where I was inspired to try reading a book in Bahasa Indonesia. I crazily chose The Girl on the Train as my beginner novel… And the girls laughed at me as I tried to read the first paragraph and couldn’t make out anything but a few words here and there. But I’m determined! I’ve now read a whole two pages in the week since I bought it 😉

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Ice cream filled crepes

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Trying Korean Odon noodles for dinner! And it was their first time using chopsticks 😀

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Her first starbucks!

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Mall crawlers

We truly had a blast – it was a weekend of so many firsts for the kids and that made it so special. I was sad to say goodbye to Carlie and the girls on Wednesday when they headed for home, while I stayed a few extra days in Jakarta to prepare for next year’s incoming cohort with the other SETAs (Senior ETAs).

It was a fabulous week!

It was a fabulous week!

Filed Under: Fulbright, SMAN 5 Tagged With: competition, fulbright, jakarta, SMAN 5, WORDS

Meet Mackenzie

Hi! I'm Mackenzie! I'm currently a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant in Indonesia! I'm writing all about my year on this blog and hope you'll follow along on this journey! Read More…

Disclaimer:

Students and Indonesian Friends: Please don't take anything I say here as critical of my experience or you and your culture. Rather, through this blog I want to share my experience in your country with my friends and family in America! I may write and laugh about a lot of things that are different but none of it is bad, it's just different!

This blog is not an official Department of State website, and the views and information presented here are my own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the Department of State.

My Latest Posts on Instagram

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My Latest Reads

My Latest Reads

Between the World and Me
5 of 5 stars
Between the World and Me
by Ta-Nehisi Coates
If You Follow Me: A Novel
3 of 5 stars
If You Follow Me: A Novel
by Malena Watrous
The Goldfinch
4 of 5 stars
The Goldfinch
by Donna Tartt
Missoula: Rape and the Justice System in a College Town
4 of 5 stars
Missoula: Rape and the Justice System in a College Town
by Jon Krakauer
Station Eleven
4 of 5 stars
Station Eleven
by Emily St. John Mandel
Fight Back and Win
2 of 5 stars
Fight Back and Win
by Gloria Allred

goodreads.com

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Mackenzie

Hi! I'm Mackenzie! I'm currently a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant in Indonesia! I'm writing all about my year on this blog and hope you'll follow along on this journey! Read More…

A Look Back

Caramelized Onion & Gruyere Tart
This blog is not an official U.S. Department of State website and the views and opinions expressed here are entirely my own, and do not represent the U.S. Department of State or the Fulbright Program.

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